Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
